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Grafting Avocados

Grafting Avocados

A few weeks ago I attempted to cleft graft some " stewart " avocado budwood onto a bacon rootstock. It appears that one may have taken although it is still alittle early to tell. The scion wood still looks healthy and viable so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If this does take it will give me enough confidence to attemp grafting some STEARNS and some DUKE onto some mexicola and duke rootstock.

Another avocado variety that sounds interesting to me is the XX3. The little bit of info I could find on it said that the tree is a guatemalan variety with excellent flavored avocados weighing 18 to 24 oz. Also the tree is described as smaller than wertz. I was not able to find any info on the hardiness of this variety but with it being such a small tree I imagine it could be covered on those cold spells.
I was reading about " Daily 11 " and how it can have fruit up to 5 pounds WOW. I wonder how successful one could be grafting some of this inside the canopy of a hardy variety like bacon or mexicola? It would be worth the effort to get some 5 pounders. I had a friend who at one time had Daily 11 but before the tree could really get established the gophers chewed it up. He said it went through a winter here in the valley without protection so it must not be real sensetive to cold nights.

Axel I recall you mentioning awhile back that you really liked the ZUTANO variety. Well I had two from off a freinds tree the other day and not having tried them before I thought that they would have alot of stringiness and lack flavor but much to my surprize there was no stringiness and the flesh was creamy and very delicious nutty flavor. I wonder if the stringiness is caused by the use of chemical fertilizers? I know that Paul Thomson mentioned this to be the cause on some of his mangos and that by using organic fertilizer on them this changed the amount of fiber to none. Eunice Messner told me that she gets very good fruit off her mango using fish emultion and liquid kelp mixed in a foliar spray. I have begun using only fish fertilizer and liquid kelp on all my fruit trees and am happy to see them looking healthy. My ICECREAM Mango is in a 5 gallon can and put it in the garage during the winter. It has been forming flower blossoms since Jan and they look like their going to open soon. I think I will probably pull off any fruit that might set as the tree is way to small to allow it to carry any. My THOMSON and MANILA are not blooming yet. I am suppose to be getting a couple of TURPENTINE trees so as to have a source for rootstock then hope to graft some KEITT and others. My goal is to have some cocktail mango trees of any varieties I can find scionwood from. I also hope to do this same thing with cherimoya trees. I grafted some WHITE onto my friends seedling cherimoya and it looks like it may have taken but we'll see. There are so many good varieties that I would like to have that it would be hard to find room for one tree of each so why not some cocktail trees?

David did you try any grafts on cherimoyas? How did your avocado grafts turn out? Please let me know as I'm curious.

William

The following thread was started by William Visalia zone 9 on February 17, 2003 at 1:02 am PST


William, grafting

William

Grafting avocados was easy, but getting them to take was not easy. I tried T budding the first time, they stayed green for late summer, and through the winter, last year, but started dieing off with out sprouting, by early spring. None of them attached.

This last year and second time, I tried chip budding, I heard it was much better. I still lost most of them too, but one did take of each var, Jeff's Mexicola Grande and a green thin skin tree north of Modesto, which has been there like 60 or more years, has a 4 foot thick trunk and is really tall, even after being cut way back at least once.

I have not tried grafting cherimoyas yet, I might try that this season, I have one seedling big enough this year.

I use fish emulsion, and a little rabbit manure mixed in with my mulch, and all my plants do just great. One just has to figure out how much to use. I was reading in the CRFG mag too, that using commercial fertiziler promotes soil rot and even brown rot in fruit. It said using organic slow breakdown fertilizers, with mulch on the ground inhibit the formation of many soil born bacteria's.

David

The above followup was added by David, Waterford CA, zone9 on February 17, 2003 at 2:59 am PST.


XX3

The fruit size up early and take 18 months to mature so in winter it's difficult to tell which fruit are mature.

It also goes by the name 'Holiday' Avocado.

The above followup was added by Tom on February 17, 2003 at 3:06 am PST.


Grafting Avocados

David

I tried a technique that my freind uses when he grafts apples and peaches and things of the sort. What he does is too cut his scionwood long enough so that he has room to use a small hand wood plane. It gives him a very good cut and even surface on both sides. Now if he happens to be whip grafting then he uses the plane on the rootstock also. It is such a good fit using this method that he rarely ever gets one that doesnt take. Then after he fits everything together he wraps the graft very tight and seals everything with sealing wax. Like I said he very seldom gets a graft that doesnt take. He has been grafting some cherimoyas lately and it looks very good. I am suppose to get together with him and were going to swap cherimoya budwood and graft some seedlings.

David another one of my freinds who grafts avocados and has a very good percentage of takes says that he prefers tip growth. He said that they almost always take using this method. I was looking at some trees where he had worked a couple of limbs over to another variety and had no problem getting them to take. One important thing to remember though is to make sure that the trees are in a state where the bark is slipping this usually occurs in the spring and again in the fall. If your grafting in a greenhouse you should have a larger window of opportunity.

Another one of my freinds has one of those grafting tools. I am not sure how well it would work on avocados as we did not try it on anything other than just a peach limb messing around, however it did seem to cut a cleft graft that was very tight fitting so perhaps it might do fine. It was not a very expensive tool compared to some of them I have seen.

I guess the bottom line is that practice makes perfect when it comes to grafting.
Tom I didnt realize that XX3 takes that long to mature. Well anyway it would stilll be fun to play around with it.

William

The above followup was added by william visalia zoone 9 on February 17, 2003 at 7:11 am PST.


Normal time for Hass?

Does Hass normally take 18 months to mature? mine looks like it's going to be at least 18 months maybe 20+, the others I have like Bacon, Rincon that got fruit this year are getting bigger much faster than the Hass did

Jason

The above followup was added by Jason on February 17, 2003 at 7:28 am PST.


Hass

I think Hass takes around 12 to 16 months and holds on for a few more months after that.

The above followup was added by Tom on February 17, 2003 at 10:03 am PST.


Mona Lisa

http://www.msnusers.com/kot93sshaoa8gglug3iehs89a1/Documents/bana0606.jpg

The above followup was added by Tom on February 17, 2003 at 10:46 am PST.


Maturity of Hass

12 to 16 month maturity is way to long. I grow Hass for a living here in San Diego and maturity ranges from 9 to 11 months. Generally growers size pick at 8 to nine months, the fruit oil content on these larger sizes is around 22%. Groves are usually stripped at 11 to 13 months, but some growers prefer to leave the fruit a couple of months longer to size it up and wait out a price jump. Fruit that sets in March April usually will drop off the trees the following June or July if not picked. I do get some odds and ends that will hold through until September or October, but that is unusual.

Gary Le Vine

The above followup was added by Gary Le Vine on February 18, 2003 at 9:56 pm PST.


You must be in a warmer spot

Mine set fruit in about late October, that's pretty well into Spring, It's too cold for even the pure Mexican trees to flower untill late September. I've seen a 25 year old Fuerte tree in a slightly warmer climate than me (about 1-2c warmer) it gives 400 fruit a year and takes exactly 12 months to mature, hows 12 months on Fuerte compare to your orchard?

The above followup was added by Jason on February 19, 2003 at 2:12 pm PST.


Fuerte

Are you in Australia? having a spring in September means your on the other side of the world, our spring is in March-April. Anyway, each variety has different maturity dates, I only grow California Hass and California Lamb-Hass, so I can't comment on Fuerte. Fuerte is liked by many people here, but it is not the fruit of choice for growing. I think it is a B type flower because many Hass growers plant it in there orchard for cross pollination. I also would tend to agree with your statement about climate implications on maturity, Hass is very climate sensitive and could bloom and set fruit in the middle of winter if we have a sustained heat wave.

Gary

The above followup was added by Gary Le Vine on February 19, 2003 at 4:02 pm PST.


Toro Canyon rootstock

Gary,

I've got a Lamb-Hass on Toro Canyon rootstock. No salt burn and beautiful dark green leaves. I think it's the rootstock that's doing this.

Are you growing any trees on Toro Canyon and if so, what have you observed?

The above followup was added by Tom on February 19, 2003 at 9:20 pm PST.


Gary yes

I'm at the very South of Australia, the coast just above Tasmania, pretty much in the South pole if the wind is comming from the south : ), I figure Hass needs a bit more warmth than most Avocados but I guess the time it takes to mature doesn't matter as long as there is allways two crops on the tree, after the first time the tree crops it makes no difference how long it took to ripen

The above followup was added by Jason on February 20, 2003 at 1:41 am PST.


Toro Canyon Root Stck

I can't answer whether my Lamb-Hass are on Toro Canyon Rootstock or not. I order all my Hass on Thomas Rootstock, so my guess is that my Lambs also came in on Thomas. I found that "Thomas" rootstock is the hardiest and most root-rot resistant clonal for Hass, so I have been sticking with that variety.

Gary

The above followup was added by Gary Le Vine on February 20, 2003 at 9:17 pm PST.


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