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What is the proper method to graft avocado's?
The following thread was started by Gregory in Palo Alto on March 04, 2006 at 10:38 pm PST
Have you ever attended a budding/grafting class, it really helps, if you have not.
I tried T Budding, but never got a take. I get better then 50 % with Chip Budding. These are figures for multi budding/grafting on a in ground tree. Success is much greater with small rootstock.
You have to encourage eat bud to push.
I have talked to others who swear by whip and wedge grafts.
The above followup was added by DavidLJ48, Waterford CA, zone9 on March 04, 2006 at 10:58 pm PST.
Use parafilm, and try to match only one side
Here are a few tips for grafting.
1) Always try to match only one side. Do that whether you're bud grafting, whip grafting, or whatever technique you use.
2) When you wrap, wrap such that the pressure makes the one side you are matching totally tight. On a bud graft, you have to create tension on the bud shield such that it pushes into the side you are matching. That's why electrical tape is no good. You need grafting tape, something that has a little better elasticity, so that you can wrap well. I would not use electrical tape.
3) Try using transparent tape, because light will reduce the growth of fungus and bacteria.
4) Use parafilm to seal - it's the most fullproof method to ensure no moisture loss. You can get parafilm at any chem store on the net, or from a friend who can buy it for you at Stanford University (since you're in Palo Alto.)
5) Bigger is better - this is counter intuitive, because you might think that the smaller the scion wood is, the less the receiving plant has to feed it. But this intuition is not helpul. You are trying to sdo the following: how can I get the piece of scion wood to stay alive long enough so that the graft union can heal and the scion wood begins to receive food. Well, the bigger the scion wood piece, the more reserve the scion wood piece has to survive, and the longer it will survive. For bud grafting, this means you need to take a big enough shield of cambium with you. For whip grafts, this means take a nice, long piece of scion wood. Again, seal for moisture using parafilm.
I hope these tips will help you.
The above followup was added by Axel on March 05, 2006 at 7:31 am PST.
One more tip on whip grafts
One common mistake I made for a long time is to wrap the tape in the wrong direction. Once you have chosen which side you want to match perfectly, you have to wrap the tape in such a direction that that the wrapping pushes that side together. If you wrap in the wrong direction, you will actually push the side apart that you are trying to match.
So, for example, on a whip graft, if you are facing the graft, and the scion wood is sticking upward, and you have chosen to match the right side of the scion, then you need to wrap the tape counter clockwise. If you are trying to match the left side, then wrap clockwise.
Again, don't use electrical tape, especially if it's sticky. That's real bad news, because the sticky side will collect dirt and bacteria while you are wrapping, and will also suffocate the bark.
The above followup was added by Axel on March 05, 2006 at 7:37 am PST.
Bark grafting in Hawaii
A buddy of mine in Hawaii used the following technique to establish "commercial" avocado orchards:
1. Plant a pit.
2. When it is 2-3" diameter, and your scion wood is pausing (between growth spurts) and axil buds are dormant, sut off the trunk at 24" above ground. Do a bark graft with 2-4 scions per tree.
3. 4-8 months later, remove all but the most vigourous scion.
The above followup was added by Terence on March 05, 2006 at 3:31 pm PST.
Terence, interesting way to graft, I have never seen that method done on Avocados.
The above followup was added by DavidLJ48, Waterford CA, zone9 on March 05, 2006 at 6:11 pm PST.
2-3" diameter trunk, man that will be heavy.
I was sort of hoping I could do a couple multigrafted trees, pick the best shaped one and plant it. Wish me luck.
The above followup was added by Gregory in Palo Alto on March 07, 2006 at 9:07 am PST.
Gregory, grafting or budding multi on a avocado
I have read and been told by the CRFG experts that it does not work well, to multi bud or graft, but I have found it much not different then doing the same on a citrus tree.
I have found with a in ground tree, you want to make sure you bud on a upper active limb, or nearly so. Other wise the tree might decide to drop and discard the limb, if it gets a bit too much shade.
I have been doing a central leader form, shaped like a pine tree. But the top is more aggressive and want to over ride the bottom lateral horizontal limbs; so you have to prune the top lot. I think it will work, but will take a lot of controlled pruning.
It might be better to just use the usual vase shape and start budding different limbs to different varieties of similar growth form and aggressiveness, at a couple feet or so from the ground.
I guess around 4 to 5 or so limbs. off of the trunk separated by at lest 6 to 8 inches somewhat equal distance from each around the trunk. You could also add another bud to each of these if you wanted even more.
My tree is held at 10 feet or so, by pruning, and the base trunk is a good 4 plus inches now. Even then nearly a couple years ago, I added on another one at 5 feet, on a small upright new limb. Last year I used my Omega grafter and attached one more on this one at 7 feet, and it now has a 8 inch shoot, which started to grow late last summer.
My parent tree is Bacon. budded on Mexicola Grande at 5 feet, it grew 4 feet in one year. On a secondary spur I budded some experimental wood from Dave Wilson Nursery owner, Mr Wynne. On top of this is Creole, a Mexican variety smuggled in from Mexico. Below all of this is a side limb, which is from the Kiernan Road tree north of Modesto.
The above followup was added by DavidLJ48, Waterford CA, zone9 on March 08, 2006 at 4:48 pm PST.
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