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How to transplant a mango tree thats ten feet
The following thread was started by Dennis on March 17, 2002 at 1:18 am PST
I have the same problem.
I need to move an 8 footer thats blocking my walkway.
This year, I purposly left it unprotected to be ravaged by our chilly winter....the only problem is, our 28f degree low only nipped the tips. Now it has to be moved.
Moving this bugger is going to be a pain in the ass, as I'm hyper sensitive to the sap.
The tree is related to poison oak / ivy and being a fair skinned blond....it gives me bad rashes.
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 18, 2002 at 3:37 pm PST.
(1) Leave it there and keep it pruned. The heavier the fruit load, the less it will grow.
(2) Graft a piece and start another one in case this one doesn't make it.
(3) Don't transplant when it's flushing, when it's dormant or when it's too hot.
(4) Cut half the roots, backfill, wait three weeks then dig other side and remove.
(5) Get as big a root ball and undisturbed as possible.
These things don't transplant very well in my experience.
The above followup was added by Tom on March 18, 2002 at 11:24 pm PST.
If they don't transplant well....then its gonna die!
Its in a choice location and I'm going to put a grafted Lychee in its place!
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 19, 2002 at 4:14 am PST.
What's wrong with your Mango? If you don't want it, I'll come and dig it out. It sounds like a real gem.
The above followup was added by Axel on March 19, 2002 at 4:49 am PST.
Location , Location, Location!
Axel, I planted the thing on the side of my house. It is only 2ft from my walkway. The branches hang over my walkway and I have to keep it pruned or tied back or else when I come in contact. I get Mango-i-tess. Its a rash like reaction, some what like poison Oak a reaction.
As I mentioned, I let it take the brunt of this winters cold. While it is planted close to the house, it was not covered. It hasn't yet flowered this year, I am guessing because the buds froze. Though thats just about all that did....
You can have it if you want it.... Just tell me when you be in the area to dig it up. It is big. The trunk at the base is about 6 inches in Dia. I won't be much help with its removel....I fear Mango - I -tess.
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 19, 2002 at 7:09 am PST.
When can I come?
I am fortunate enough not to be affected by mango sap. I'll gladly come and dig it out. You just name the weekend, and I am there. I make no illusions about being able to grow mangos outdoors here, but since I am building a greenhouse, I am sure the mango tree will be happy in there. I have been quite successful at digging out plants that have been labeled as unmovable by others.
Is there anything I can bring you in exchange? I can bring some cherimoya scion wood and gladly graft it onto your cherimoya there. Selma, Booth, Fine de Jete, deliciosa should all be good choices for the Central Valley. After 300 grafts, and watching them take, I am happy to report I have finally cracked the code. I also have some of those Pacific Papayas that are hardy as can be.
So just say the word.
The above followup was added by Axel on March 19, 2002 at 3:37 pm PST.
Good luck Axel
I mean that seriously because this is going to be a real challenge.
Trees with trunk diameters of 1 to 3 inches transplant best. 3 to 5 inchers are more iffy, and that's for landscape trees. We are talkin Mango here with brittle feeder roots.
Let us know how it turns out.
The above followup was added by Tom on March 19, 2002 at 3:54 pm PST.
I was given a mango tree once that had been in a pot for years and years it had a tap root that was a giant knott so I cut the tap root off about 2 inches under the feeder roots, the thing wouldn't even stand up in the new pot so I kept it inside the house where there is no wind :). It recovered and grew really fast, it was a great house plant. Then I planted it outside in the coldest windiest spot I have. It's basically dead now but the point of the story is I was extremely bruital and it took it
The above followup was added by Jason on March 19, 2002 at 4:55 pm PST.
I'll take you up on that cherimoya grafting! I have a seedling cherimoya close by that I like see have a named cv on it.
I'll have to look at my schedule, but maybe the first or second weekend in April will be ok. Drop me an email and we can work out the details.
This tree may be a little easier than most Mangoes to move. At the time that I planted it, I hadn't prepared the soil. ( I didn't think it would survive long) So anyway the root system may be shallow as the soil is quite compacted along the edge of the house.
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 19, 2002 at 7:52 pm PST.
I just remembered that you can successfully fruit mangos as an espalier. They do it in So. Africa. Just hack it staight up from the ground. No need to frost protect.
The above followup was added by Tom on March 19, 2002 at 10:31 pm PST.
More reasons for move
As I mentioned above, I didn't really expect this tree to survive one Modesto winter, much less the five or six that it has. So with haste , I planted it in the first spot that I found.
As I remember it, I just scraped a small depression in an area of my yard that had compacted soil and dropped it in. The first two years, the lack of soil preparation showed. It was a spindley thing that seemed to barely hold on. Even now, when I water the tree most of the water seems to run off , rather than soak into the soil.
What I would like to do is get a dwarf or semi dwarf named variety that has a better chance of producing good
( perhaps Nam doc mai?) fruit and plant it in a more favorable location, with amended soil, good drainage, yet out of the way so that I don't have to brush up against it so much.
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 19, 2002 at 10:54 pm PST.
I hear conflicting reports on 'Nam Doc Mai' as how it performs in subtropical climates.
Whatever you do, get an early or midseason variety. If you get a late one, it won't have enough time to push new growth before winter (ie you lose the next year's flowers and it becomes a biannual bearer).
I hear 'Glen' is a good choice.
The above followup was added by Tom on March 19, 2002 at 11:23 pm PST.
You might be right about Glenn. I need a var. that will fruit in cool spring weather. At Menlo growers in Gilroy, the had several 5 gal Glenn Mangoes with fruit set on them. Gilroy is a little cooler than here.
By the way....how are your Mangoes doing this year?
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 19, 2002 at 11:27 pm PST.
My biggest trees are only 3 to 4 feet tall but old enough that if they do set, I will keep 1 to 3 mangoes on each one, so they will keep growing. I have two in the ground and two in pots that are capable.
This dry winter/spring will give them the best possible chance for pollination.
They do get this blackening in the center of the leaf that can spread into the petiole and into the branch. Not sure if it is Anthracnose.
I had one tree die from it, but the others usually recover.
Another good thing I heard about 'Glen' is that it's grows well without much care, making it a great dooryard variety.
The above followup was added by Tom on March 20, 2002 at 4:17 pm PST.
When my tree was younger and slow growing, it was covered with those blackened areas. Now that is larger... there are no more!
The above followup was added by Jeff on March 20, 2002 at 6:52 pm PST.
My "Baby" My Mango Tree
I planted this thing from a seed from a fruit I ate, about 4 years ago. I have kept it alive in a pot and from the bottom of the pot to the top of the tree is about 6.5 ft. I am really tempted to plant it in the ground, but after having it so long, I would feel quite a loss if it died. Is there any reported case where a Mango tree survived indefinately in a pot? What is the best way for me to fertilize it, water it, stimulate growth? Why when I transplant it into a larger pot, does the root system look so poor? Please send advice. Rebecca in Bryan, Texas
The above followup was added by Rebecca on August 03, 2005 at 1:24 pm PST.
My "Baby" My Mango Tree
Trees from seeds don't produce fruit of good quality:(
But no fear you could inarch (approach graft)or even crown graft with better quality limbs.
See the mango seeds are genetically designed to make a hardy rootstock but not a good fruiter,usually string and terpentine fregrant. Almost all trees are grafted.
Heres an idea and will work for most who live up in the norther area. Graft using the bailys marvel its more cold tollerant and able to withstand more diseases. Pine island nursery has some info on trees. You could
buy a three gallon plant and inarch it with your seedling.
On another note some say that if you graft too many differnet types of limbs on one tree it will dwaf it like a condo mango.
The above followup was added by Pete on September 08, 2005 at 9:56 pm PST.
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