harveyc

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 313

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:35 am

Location: Isleton, CA Sunset 14, USDA 9b

Climate Zone: USDA9b Sunset14

I've read lots about this and have posted about it here before. I've been using RootMaker and RootTrapper pots for about two years, primarily on chestnut seedlings. I like them both but prefer the results of the RootTrapper pots but they are difficult to re-use (need to remove stitching along side seam and then re-sew). There are other brands of these pots but I think these are probably among the best. However, I remember there was one company that made pot liners that were slit along a side that appeared easy to re-use. I think that finding the right type of ground cloth would allow you to make your own fairly easily for a lot less money. I've also used MicroKote, a coating of primarily copper which is painted on the inside of pots. My experience is that it has not worked as well as I've seen in rollitup (MJ forum which I only visited for root pruning information, fyi). I've also tried making my own copper paint but haven't evaluated it yet.

There are three avenues for increasing root branching/mass: (1) air "pruning", (2) entrapment, and (3) chemical "pruning". I was somewhat skeptical of the entrapment method but the roots do really well in the RootTrapper pots (made by RootMaker, invented by Dr. Carl Whitcomb). I think I bought a little over 100 each of RootMaker and RootTrapper pots from a distributor in Windsor, CA and they were a little over $2 each for 3 gallon size.

I suggest reading this patent "RPM" or "Root Production Method" as it provides some useful information about the subject. http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7308775.html I've also used that system (IMO, the patent is unfounded) but it's hard to separate plants from trays.

It's important to "prune"/entrap along the sides of the pots as well as the bottom.

I don't think it's as useful for plants such as citrus and pomegranates which already tend to have more of a fibrous root system.

Ed of Somis

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 435

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:46 am

Location: Ventura Co.

Climate Zone: Sunset zone 21

H....nice post. I am still using the "ghetto" version. thanks

MarkN

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 198

Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:08 am

Location: Central Texas, zone 8b

Climate Zone: USDA zone 8b

meebo wrote:there are a variety of air pots on the market...exactly which one are you referring to? It seems that some are better than others and the design seems more complicated than just drilling holes into the pot like this one that I saw while trying to google air prune growing pots to see what it was.

http://www.superoots.com/air_intro.htm

Very true. The best designs are those that direct roots outside of the container. I'm using custom made Rootbuilder pots and the avocadoes and citrus I put in them are going nuts. Bought a 105' roll and made up my own.

Chemical root tip pruning works as well, such as Griffin's Spin-Out. Used it for years with extremely good results.

nullzero

Cloudforest Expert

 

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Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:26 pm

Climate Zone: Sunset Zone 21

Purchase a superoot 12 gal air pruning container, growing a Ewais mango in it. Will update with its progress.

Ed of Somis

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 435

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:46 am

Location: Ventura Co.

Climate Zone: Sunset zone 21

Once you decide to plant a tree OUTSIDE of the rootmaker....is it difficult to get the plant out of the container because of all the pruned roots around/through holes???

harveyc

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 313

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:35 am

Location: Isleton, CA Sunset 14, USDA 9b

Climate Zone: USDA9b Sunset14

No. The roots stop when they hit air. The only reason roots grow outside the holes of conventional pots is because the holes are on the bottom and the roots often stay moist.

Ed of Somis

Cloudforest Expert

 

Posts: 435

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:46 am

Location: Ventura Co.

Climate Zone: Sunset zone 21

gotcha. thanks